Species · Otocinclus vittatus

Otocinclus care: why they starve in new tanks

Otocinclus do not usually die of disease. They die of an empty tank — quietly, over three weeks, while the keeper assumes the algae is enough.

4–5 cm (1.6–2 in)22–26 °C (72–79 °F)Moderate
Size
4–5 cm (1.6–2 in)
Minimum tank
10 gal / 38 L, matured 3+ months
Temperature
22–26 °C (72–79 °F)
pH
6.5–7.5
Hardness
2–12 dGH
Group size
3+
Diet
Biofilm, soft algae, blanched vegetables
Difficulty
Moderate

Otocinclus are wild-caught in enormous numbers and arrive at the shop already thin. Their gut is short and they graze almost continuously; a tank with no biofilm and no algae has nothing for them, and they will not reliably switch to wafers.

The three conditions

  1. A mature tank. Three months minimum, with wood, plants and visible film on the glass.
  2. A group. Three or more; a single otocinclus hides and stops eating.
  3. Zero ammonia, zero nitrite. They are more sensitive than the fish they share a tank with.

Feeding when the algae runs out

Blanched zucchini, spinach or cucumber weighed down overnight; Repashy or a dedicated gel food; and a piece of driftwood they can graze. Rotate so nothing rots, and remove uneaten vegetable matter after 24 hours — in a small tank it decays into exactly the ammonia they cannot tolerate.

Watch the belly

A healthy otocinclus has a rounded, slightly sunken-but-full belly. A flat or hollow one is already in trouble. If you see it on day three, the tank is not ready — return the fish rather than watch it decline.

Questions

Frequently asked

Will otocinclus eat all my algae?
They eat soft algae and biofilm, not black beard algae or staghorn. They are a maintenance crew, not a treatment.
Can otocinclus live in a 5-gallon tank?
Not well. They need a mature tank with a large grazing surface, and five gallons does not provide one for a group of three.
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